Kyoto Japan - A Contrast in Culture and Technology

Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine

Kyoto was a wonderful introduction to Japan.  Where else could you have Geishas, historic temples and shrines hundreds of years old, and toilet seats that require a PhD to operate?  We arrived at our hotel and were intrigued by the compact and very efficient layout: 

• a separate toilet room with a fancy shmancy high-tech toilet with built-in sink on top of tank
• a “wet room” (a waterproof room where you could either use the deep tub for a bath, or shower just in front of tub standing right on the floor, or with a stool to sit upon if you wished)
• a vanity sink in the entrance hall of the room
• a panel by the bed which controlled all the lights in the room and included a number of charging plugs as well as USB ports.  

The setup really made sense given the smaller room sizes here in Japan. 

High-tech toilet - note control panel on wall and wash basin on toilet tank to conserve water

the "wet room" - bathe in tub or shower right on the floor

Anyway, enough with our hotel- off to the sights of Kyoto.  While a large city, there are no skyscrapers (maybe ten stories maximum), and discovered it is divided into distinct precincts, or neighborhoods.  Kyoto developed over the years around the historic temples and shrines, which are scattered throughout the city, but given the dense mass transportation network (bus, rail, light rail, trolley, and subway), nothing was very far......just a challenge to figure out the public transport map in order to get there. 

Since we visited so many temples, shrines, and sites during our visit, it's easier to list them, rather than in order by day of visit:

Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavillion/Rokuon-Ji Temple): The Golden Pavillion is a Buddhist hall containing relics of Buddha.  The estate was built in 1397 by Ashikaga Yoshimtsu, the Third Shogun of the Muromachi period.  The garden and buildings, centered on the Golden Pavillion, were said to represent the Pure Land Of Buddha in the mortal world.  Upon his death, his will stated it be converted into a temple, and has remained so until present day.

Ryoan Ji Temple: Originally a country home of the Tokudaiji Clan, it was acquired in 1450 for use as a Zen training temple.  Destroyed by fire during the Onin War, it was rebuilt in 1499.  The most remarkable feature is the Zen Rock Garden- a simple 25 x 10 meter rectangle which contains no trees, only 15 rocks and white gravel.  This internationally famous rock garden was created around 1500 by a highly respected Zen monk, Tokuho Zenketsu.

Kyoto Imperial Palace: The residence of Japanese emperors from 794 until 1869, when the capital was moved to Tokyo.  The complex is huge- a rectangular, walled compound measuring 5.3 km by 4.4 km.  The palace itself measures 450 meters by 250 meters and consists of several structures including residences, Hall for State Ceremonies, Emperor's and Empress’ Throne, Hall for Rites and Rituals, other ceremonial halls, and gardens.


Fushimi Inari-Takisha Shrine: One of the most important and popular (and impressive!) Shinto shrines in Japan on the Imari-San mountain, a half-hour metro ride from central Kyoto.  It is dedicated to the Shinto god of rice, Inari.  Built in 711, it contains over 5,000 Torii gates, all painted bright orange (to represent blood), each donated by various individuals and organizations. There are also hundreds of statues of foxes as they are thought to be the messenger of Imari.

Map showing Torii Gates going up entire mountain!

Sanjusangendo Hall: The temple name means “Hall with Thirty-Three Spaces between Columns" and was built in 1164.  This famous temple is known to be the longest wooden structure in Japan- 120 meters long, built to hold the 1,000 statues of Kannon- the Goddess Of Mercy.  Each goddess statue having 42 arms holding weapons (to fight the suffering and defeat it), and in the center, a larger 11-headed Kannon Bodhisattva statue (the 11 heads are believed to allow the goddess to view completely the sufferings that people endure).   I sometimes wish I had 42 arms (especially when cooking!).  All of the wood statues were covered in gold leaf.  It was pretty awesome.  No photography was permitted inside, so an internet photo will have to suffice.....

Sanjusangendo Hall exterior

the well in front of temple for purification of hands prior to entering temple

Kiyomizu-dera Temple (Pure Water Temple): One of the most popular temples in Japan (they all seem to be popular!), it provides a great view of Kyoto.  It contains an 11-faced Kannon with a thousand arms. It has a huge wooden porch supported by 139 pillars, and has three water streams running through the site, which represent success in studies, long life, and success in love.  There are several other pagodas and structures scattered throughout the complex.



Yasaka Shrine: Also known as Gion Shrine, built over 1,350 years ago, contains several shrines dedicated to deities and goddesses.  Its main feature is the vermillion lacquered gate and of course a Japanese water garden.

an actual Maiko boarding home

Gion: An historic area known as the most famous Geisha District in Japan.  This is the area where Geishas and Maikos (a Geisha in training) live in group boarding homes and work in tea houses as entertainers and hostesses (to originally men but now also women) in private (membership only) tea houses.  It takes five years for a Maiko to become a Geisha starting at age 15.  Upon acceptance into a Maiko boarding house, a Maiko must study the arts of dance, music, singing, flower arranging, and the protocols of a Geisha.  The boarding house pays for everything- room, board, several sets of kimonos (12 kimonos per woman plus all the accessories for each kimono), hair styling once a week, makeup, etc. which the Maiko must pay back once she starts building up a clientele following.  She works every evening moving on-demand at the various tea houses, and studies during the day.  They must also be extremely discreet in their behavior, given the political and business conversations that occur in these exclusive, private tea houses.  It can be difficult to distinguish between true Maikos and ordinary women that rent Geisha costumes for the day when walking the streets of Kyoto.  The tell-tale signs that differentiate a real Geisha or Maiko are the elaborate hairstyles and special hair ornaments.  Also, the real McCoy only has lipstick on their lower lip.  A long time ago, Geishas did engage in prostitution but it is now prohibited.

Nara: An ancient capital of Japan, a few hours outside of Kyoto.  In Nara, there are several famous Buddhist temples and shrines, as well as the famous 1,250-acre reserve that is home to more than 1,200 wild, free-roaming deer, who will bow their heads when fed special deer crackers.  Why so many deer you might ask?? Back in the eighth century, it was believed that a god came to Nara riding a white deer.  Since then, deer are respected and protected by the locals as divine messengers.  These “divine messengers” can get quite aggressive if they think you have any crackers. They wander everywhere in town as well as within the park, are not afraid of people, and will follow you and beg for crackers.  They really do bow down in order to get a cracker! Just meandering along the sidewalk blending in with the visitors.... They do what they want, wherever they want.... Within Nara, we visited:

Kohfukuji Temple and Five Story Pagoda: Originally built in the seventh century, this temple and pagoda were reconstructed about 600 years after they had burned down five times.






Kasuga Taisha Shrine: The paths and shrine are lined with over 2,000 stone lanterns, and the eaves of the shrine itself are lined with over a thousand hanging bronze lanterns!

Todaiji Temple: This temple is famous not only for its Great Buddha statue, which is enormous, but it is also the largest wooden structure in the world!  Originally constructed from 710-794 AD.  The current temple, which required reconstruction in 1708, is actually two-thirds the size of the original which burned down twice as the result of wars.

front entrance gate

Todaiji Temple

Great Buddha!

From Nara we headed back to Kyoto to experience the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. A very popular sight in Kyoto where bamboo grows straight and tall as you stroll along over half a kilometer through narrow pathways in this dense bamboo forest. 


Kyoto was not only beautiful, it was delicious!  We wandered through various fresh markets located throughout the city, and had some amazing meals:  

• shrimp and fish tempura cooked in an open kitchen in front of us
• sushi that traveled along a conveyor belt as you sat at the counter taking whatever plate caught your fancy (you pay according to the plates you accumulated when finished- all color coded
• amazing ramen bowls
• Okonomiyaki with fried noodles (a type of Japanese omelette made with eggs, shredded carrots, cabbage, zucchini, green onion and topped with mayonnaise and okonomiyaki sauce) cooked on a griddle built into your own table
• pork and vegetable tonkatsu, which is a pork tenderloin cutlet served with a sauce (you make yourself from sesame seeds that you pulverize with your personal mortar and pestle then add various soy-based liquids), then accompanied with finely shredded cabbage with a yuzu dressing.  All this served at a community table.  

All meals were YUM!

the sushi conveyor belt...	our sushi total	shrimp and fish tempura
Okonomiyaki with fried noodles	Tonkatsu	Interesting ramen

Fish market

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Everything and anything is available 24/7 at vending machines