Myanmar- Bagan, Ground Zero for Temples!

Shwezigon Pagoda (constructed between 1059-1102)

So, off to Bagan.  Bagan is an ancient city and UNESCO site located along the banks of the Irrawaddy River, and probably the most popular tourist location in Myanmar.  The temple complex area consists of 26 square miles, and at one time, there was once over 10,000 pagodas, temples, stupas (a stupa is a structure/pagoda that typically contains a Buddha relic chamber inside), and monasteries.  There are now over 2,200 remaining structures. Some were destroyed over the years by wars, general deterioration, and many were damaged by earthquakes as Bagan is located in an active earthquake zone.   

We stayed at a lovely resort village situated along the banks of the Irrawaddy River, and meals were served in a lovely garden setting.


Too large an area to walk, we chose to rent e-bikes (electric powered scooters) to get around the temple sites. After some practice driving (it took me quite a while to get the hang of driving these electric scooters), we headed off with our local guide, Thura Htut (Tut for short).  


We first visited a local market, toured a local village, then over the next 48 hours, we visited (and took our shoes off each time) the many temples and stupas including: Shwezigon Htilominlo, Ananda, ShweGuGyi, Thatbyinnyu, Sabannu, Shwe San, Daw, Thitsawadi, DammhaRazika Stupa, Lawkananda, Manuha, Damayangyi, and Sulaymaniyah (all built by different kings and during different dynasties between the 11th and 12th centuries). Basically, every temple had a Buddha shrine of one variation or another.  Some were beautifully renovated and lavish, others were more of an archaeological site, having been damaged during two major earthquakes in the past. Regardless of condition, shoes were to be removed at the entrance of each site.  About two years ago, the government prohibited visitors from climbing the temples due to the number of accidents and deaths, as tourists wanted to photograph the sunset from the tops of the them.  We were thus taken to a recently constructed sunset viewing platform to view the sunset that day.

local "long-neck" woman

We visited a local village where we first saw the famous "long-neck women" - The Kayan ethnic group (only one of 135 different ethnic groups in Myanmar).  Females at a young age start wearing these metal coils or rings around their necks for cultural reasons, believing the longer the neck, the more beautiful the woman.  They can remove the rings, but it is a long process to remove them.  They are extremely heavy and can weigh up to 20 kg (44 lbs.)!!!


The Local Village:


Bagan Market:


and the temples, stupas, etc.......



Sunset over Bagan (again, hazy sky):

several temples were illuminated in the evening....

Along the way, we had the opportunity to view a Novice Procession (a parade of sorts, held for a boy about to become a monk).  The wealthier the family, the more elaborate the ceremony and procession.  Every boy is sent to become a monk at some point early in their life, usually around five years old, for the experience and discipline.  It is a huge honor.


A Lacquer Workshop- a specialty in Bagan (yes, of course we made a few purchases.....)


On our private sunset cruise (code word for an old wooden boat)....

Tut - our guide

By this point, my head was imploding from temple overload!  Our final evening in Bagan was a sunset cruise on board a private chartered longboat (don’t be impressed- it was a rustic wooden boat with a lawnmower motor) on the Ayeyarwaddy (also called Irrawaddy River, the longest river in Myanmar, which runs from northern border through the length of country down to the Andaman Sea).  The sunsets in Myanmar, regardless of location, are a disappointment due to the haze and smog.