Looking Back on an Amazing Adventure

Note: I wrote this blog prior to the untimely death of Anthony Bourdain this morning.  He was a major influence in where and how we travel.  This blog is dedicated to him.  Wherever you are now, I hope you continue traveling........

Well, its been quite the adventure.  We made it through with our health intact (a big worry of mine before we left), our marriage intact (although there were days....), and no emergencies back home to stress over.  We did miss Eitan moving into his own condo, Arik’s marriage proposal to Charlotte, and our granddaughter Mia’s first birthday.  Travel means compromise and making hard choices- there are always going to be occasions you will miss, weather that will be less than perfect, places you hoped to visit but can’t get to for one reason or another, or even nature's way of saying not to go, such as volcanoes, earthquakes, monsoons, etc.  But none of these are reasons not to travel.  It's a big world, and it would be a shame not to go and experience it.  It’s pretty amazing out there.

Sooooo, first for the statistics:

• 14 countries
• 31 flights
• 26 boats and ferries
• 9 trains (4 of which were high-speed bullet trains)
• 2 rental cars
• 12 tour vans
• 1 borrowed car
• 6 cable cars
• 4 long-range buses
• 3 rickshaw rides
• 3 motorcycle/scooter trips
• 1 electric bike
• 1 zipline forest canopy adventure (with 14 individual ziplines and two vertical drops)
• 1 people mover
• 1 Maglev train
• 1 alpine toboggan
• too many to count tuk tuk rides, taxis, Uber rides, trolleys, local buses, and subways

As we traveled and met so many people, we were most often asked which country was our favorite?  We usually responded that each country was so different from one another that it is difficult to pinpoint one favorite location. The other most popular question (once we acknowledged that we were Americans) was what we thought of our current president?  Nathan’s response was usually shaking his head indicating disbelief, and I usually went into a ten-minute tirade.  Most foreigners had the opinion that he is a joke with negative international repercussions (and they were being kind in their comments...)

Reflecting back on our experiences, we offer several observations:

• That America clearly can no longer be considered THE world leader
• When compared to the countries we visited, Americans appear to be a more spoiled society than elsewhere
• In SE Asia, the family institution is top priority.  Adult children marry and then move in with the husband’s parents and take care of them until they pass on.  Several generations live together in most homes.  No retirement communities or nursing homes in SE Asia
• Religion is a priority, and the poorer the country, the more important religion becomes.  In fact, people would rather do without and make sacrifices in their present life in order to be able to donate money and/or food to a temple (and most often multiple temples) in hopes of a better afterlife
• Monks.  They are everywhere in Buddhist countries, and they appear to me as a drain on an already impoverished society.  It is fine to be a devout monk for life, serving as a spiritual leader for the community.  But in Buddhist cultures, children as young as the age of three go to live in a monastery for a week or two, and many men become a “monk for a week” to get a break from work or family.  The monks and the monasteries they live in depend upon donations of food and money from the local citizenry.  Monasteries can range in size from housing three monks to over 1,600 that need to be fed, and thus require money to maintain both their lifestyle and the monastery itself.  Most often, this responsibility falls on the shoulders of people that are already impoverished.  But, making a donation means a promise of a better afterlife, so they are compelled to donate daily.  AND then you see monks walking around with smartphones or in a shopping mall with designer shopping bags in hand.......
• In the more developed countries, urban planning was clearly an important aspect of development and redevelopment.  Money was clearly and purposely invested in infrastructure, open space, public places, and public institutions.  I see very little evidence of such public investment in the United States.  Where is our high-speed rail network?  Modernized transportation centers?  Urban gardens?  Bicycle infrastructure? Public art? 
• Climate change is evident everywhere.  Locals have noted changes in the weather patterns from their past norms, and have stated that current patterns are clearly different
• Pollution.  Plastic bottles are clogging small and large waterways just about everywhere we went.  Since most of the countries we visited do not have a potable water supply, buying bottled water is a necessity and very few countries have recycling processes available.  Happily, we observed many small scale, grass-roots efforts to eliminate plastic bags and use reusable bamboo straws 
• Selfies.  I could go on for hours about my loathing of selfies.  I’m not talking about the occasional selfie photo you might take while on vacation.  I’m referring to this upcoming generation that wherever they go, are so focused on taking a selfie that they forget to photograph the beauty around them.  Hello......no one wants to see photos of you when you travel, they want to see pictures of the amazing places you are visiting.  They already know what you look like!!!  Many travelers are obsessed with selfies- pursing lips, hair and scarves blowing in the breeze, and other provocative poses.  And it goes beyond tourists traveling.  We witnessed this behavior by locals in subways, on buses, at restaurants, on the sidewalk, well, you get the point.  Social media has created a monster with an unending appetite!
• Chinese Tourists. Another topic I can rant about for hours.  With new found wealth, China’s middle/upper-middle class is out and about traveling.  They are numerous, and are making a major impact in tourism wherever they go simply due to their sheer number.  They are well dressed but also very pushy.  Literally.  We've been pushed aside by a Chinese tourist trying to take a selfie as we were in their way.  They walk in front of you without hesitation while you are trying to take a photograph.  They push in line with no regard for the existing queue.  We experienced this just about everywhere we went during our trip, and other travelers we met noted that they also experienced the same behaviors
• Traffic.  It’s a global phenomenon.  It's everywhere.  Governments lack the funds to support the infrastructure necessary to keep up with the growing wealth of their populaces, and so roadway volume exceeds capacity (borrowing jargon from my former profession).  What differs in SE Asia however, is the sheer number of scooters and bicycles added to the congestion.  They are relatively affordable, do not require a drivers license, and the fact that the scooters are not required to follow any rules exacerbates an already difficult situation.  They can drive on sidewalks, in opposing lanes of traffic, are not required to stop at traffic signals, can drive down one-way streets in the opposite direction, no helmets required, and no limit to the number of persons that can fit on a single scooter.  Makes for exciting experiences as both a passenger and pedestrian
• Regardless of where you are, people are basically the same- same wants, needs, dreams, hopes, desires

Given all our adventures, good and bad, I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again in a heartbeat.  Anthony Bourdain, one of our favorite world travelers summed it up best:

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

I believe we are changed people.  We know we can make do with less and still be happy.  We have witnessed wonderful people living in what we would consider poverty and yet their attitude was so positive.  They are thankful for what they have, rather than focusing on what they don’t have.  I hope some of that attitude rubbed-off on us as we move forward.  And to all the amazing people we met throughout this trip, I’d like to believe that we left a positive impression as representatives of the United States.

To those that followed us through this adventure, I thank you for your interest and loyalty.  I will continue to update this blog (less frequently of course) as we embark on our new life in Mexico and on future travels (we have already booked a six-week trip to Israel the end of September).  It is a big, amazing world out there- go out of your comfort zone and experience it!

Back on American Soil but not Quite ......

Hawaii is, in some ways, very much America- Costco, Walmart, Walgreens, Outback, you get the picture.  But at the same time, it is also very tropical and lush, and you don't feel like this is America.  Everything but pineapple, bananas, shaved ice, flowers, macadamia nuts, and local fish are imported!!  As a result, everything is expensive.  The local fish and seafood are fresh and plentiful, and we took full advantage of their availability!

USS Arizona Memorial

We had organized a long layover in Honolulu, between our flight from Tokyo until our flight to Maui, in order to take advantage of visiting Pearl Harbor (thank you Eitan for helping us secure those hard-to-get tickets in advance!).  The museums there were quite good at explaining the various aspects of the attack, and we took a Navy launch boat out to the USS Arizona Memorial.  Unfortunately, we were unable to get on to the Memorial itself as a structural crack was identified on the boat pier deeming it unsafe, hence no visitors were permitted.  I never knew the Memorial was built directly over the sunken Arizona.  I thought it was a memorial at the site where the ship was attacked, but assumed it was raised and salvaged after removing the fallen soldiers.  It was not, and it serves as a sacred burial site.  Very moving and I know my Dad, who was a World War II Veteran, would have been so pleased that we took the time to visit the site.  He was a very proud Veteran.

Maui is just beautiful with so many different landscapes and ecosystems on a relatively small island:  lush tropical rainforests, volcanic rock cliffs, black, white, and red sand beaches, and the arid Mount Haleakala (an extinct volcano that forms more than 75% of the island, and which we drove to the summit at 10,023 ft. above sea level).  

view from our condo balcony

We stayed at an airbnb in Kihei, and drove around in our rental car to the black sand beach in Makena, hiked the rugged Kapalua Coast Trail in Kapalua, visited the “hippie town” of Paia, and strolled the streets of quaint Lahaina, where we also enjoyed a Hawaiian Luau one evening on the beach.  We also spent the day driving “the Road to Hana” which is considered one of the most scenic roads in the world.  This 52-mile drive out to Hana is also a top global contender for the road with most turns and curves (617 curves, and 56 single lane bridges).  We drove through rain forests and stopped often to see waterfalls and pools, scenic overlooks, blow holes, lava tubes, steep cliffs along the ocean, black sand and pebble beaches, and of course purchase the “hot, just from the oven“ banana bread and fresh pineapple smoothie at the Halfway to Hana Roadside stand.  We survived the Road to Hana!

just before sunset (everyday!!)	orchid lei and mai tai....	my view at the beach
top of Mt. Haleakala	Mt. Haleakala was up there...air in short supply	on the Kapalua Trail
on the way to Hana	swimming hole and waterfall on the way to Hana	lava tube on the way to Hana

Observatory near top of Mt. Haleakala

Beautiful bamboo grove

Waterfalls on way to Hana

There was this amazing Banyan Tree on the main town square in Lahaina that was absolutely huge, forming several additional trunks from the trailers of the original tree.....

Maui was also a time to just relax, sit at the beach, or ride the waves on the boogie board so kindly supplied by our condo owner (I watched others, figured out the “system,” then went out there and gave it a shot).  We booked a Hawaiian Luau (complete with beautiful orchid leis that I thought we would get earlier when we stepped off the plane- what's up with that?), and enjoyed morning coffee and breakfast in our PJs on the balcony (something we hadn’t done since Australia).   

Beachfront, Luau, Tiki Statue..Hawaii!!

Luau Entertainment

Coffee, in PJs, on balcony, overlooking ocean!

Hawaii was also a time to decompress from our great adventure.  By this point, we had gotten on each other's nerves and craved interaction with people other than ourselves.  We were tired, anxious as to the next stage in our lives, stressed to find a temporary home in Tulum until our condo was completed, and questioning our relationship- we were together for the first time 24/7 for six months, non-stop!  

Putting that temporarily aside, we didn't let it affect our appetites.  We tried Hawaiian shaved ice (doesn’t hold a candle to South Philly Italian Ice!), local banana breads, and ate our hearts out on fresh tuna, Mahi Mahi, Opa, and shrimp.  Only a few days left before we arrive in Denver and meet up with Arik and Charlotte to celebrate her graduation from Grad School.  From there, it's back to New Jersey to spend time with Eitan in his new condo, do the rounds with doctor visits, and then head back down to Tulum to meet up with Mike, Gaby, and Mia, and wait for our condo to be completed and move in.
  
We're ready....

 

Out and about in Hawaii

Japan - The Megapolis of Tokyo

Ginza Shopping District at night

Tokyo is huge and a bit overwhelming!  The subway/rail network is intricate and efficient, allowing us the ability to easily get around to all the sights, which are spread out from one end of the city to the other.  The people are very hard-working, reserved, and ultra-polite. Queues are a way of life; no pushing here.  So, with subway map in hand, we set off......

Hama-rikyu Gardens- nothing like a good Japanese Garden to relax the soul- especially one in the urban center of Tokyo!  Once the garden and hunting grounds of the Tokugawa Shogun family, it was severely damaged by earthquakes and bombings during the war, but was restored and opened in 1946.  The garden is noted for its saltwater tidal pond (seawater is drawn from the Tokyo Bay next to the park) controlled by a set of locks.  Within the park are several wooden tea houses located beside the various ponds, along with other traditional Japanese garden features such as wooden bridges, pagodas and pergolas.  As we were exiting the park, we stopped to speak with the security guard....excellent English!  Of course, he used to work for Sony in Montvale, NJ- 15 minutes from our former New Jersey home!!! 

                                                                     

Our Mount Fuji trip was a surprisingly successful adventure.  We wanted to book a tour there, but there was no availability for the date we wanted.  Any of the other available dates had rain predicted.  Rain = no visibility.  So it was suggested by the local tourist office to take a bus on our own, and we reserved our seats online for the next day.  We arrived in Kawaguchiko, then hiked around the lake to get the best viewpoint and waited for the clouds to dissipate. And waited.  And waited.  There was a family from Australia we befriended at our chosen viewpoint who had arrived just as we had and also hiked to the same spot.  Together we waited.  Finally, about two hours later, we got the view of Mount Fuji that we waited for (well, almost....but it was the best we were going to get).  Many make the trek out to Mount Fuji and have zero visibility after having spent hundreds of dollars (or Yen) for the tour.  We considered ourselves lucky!

The remaining four days in Tokyo were a whirlwind, getting to all the popular sights we could fit in:

Yummy Sushi

Tsukiji Fish Market- the largest wholesale seafood market in the world; over 400 types of seafood are handled, amounting to over 2,000 tons of fish and other seafood/day.  It has been in operation since the 16th century. There is an inner market where fish trading and a tuna auction are held, but the public is not permitted and can only visit the outer wholesale/retail market.  We enjoyed some wonderful sushi and an enormous fire-broiled scallop.

Preparing our scallop

Scallop finished

Our Sushi choices!

Imperial Palace and Garden- nice garden, and probably a spectacular site when the cherry blossoms are blooming.  Thought we could get into the palace, but it is not open to the public. 

Museum of Modern Art Tokyo (MOMAT)- exhibits of paintings, prints, sculptures, and a nice exhibit on Japanese crafts of textiles, lacquer ware, ceramics, and porcelain.

Shinjuku Gyoen- Tokyo’s equivalent of Central Park.  It is huge, with several gardens within the park: French formal garden, English style garden, a specimen rose garden, and a typical traditional Japanese garden. There was a beautiful greenhouse with tropical specimens as well as open lawn areas for special events, like the current children’s wood products design award winners.

Tokyo Government Office- I should have been so lucky to work in such a beautiful municipal government building!  This government complex consists of three buildings: the first two were eight and seven stories high, respectively, and the third tower is 48 stories high which splits into two separate towers at the 33rd floor.  The observation deck has incredible views of the Tokyo metropolitan area and on a very clear day (it was fairly clear, but not enough), Mt Fuji can be seen in the distance.  BTW- free to the public!



Meiji Jingu Shrine- a Shinto Shrine, considered Japan’s most ancient religion based on harmony and traditional values.  It is situated in a forest with 100,000 trees with were brought in from all over Japan and the rest of the world.  The people of Tokyo volunteered their time to plant these trees, completed in 1920.  There was a traditional Japanese Wedding being held during our visit!

Harajuku- a pedestrian only shopping area (Takeshita Street), that is also the name of a specific fashion style associated with young Japanese girls.  The Harajuku fashion style has young girls dressing up like anime characters, punks, or cute dolls.  It was bizarre......

Shibuya- this is one of Tokyo’s shopping mecca districts and is also home to the Shibuya pedestrian crossing and traffic intersection.  This crossing is one of the most photographed spots in modern Tokyo and one of the busiest crossings in the world.  It certainly was!

Before the pedestrian crossing signal.....

And the pedestrians cross! One full minute of humanity moving.......

                                                

Sensoji Temple- Tokyo’s oldest temple built in 645 to accommodate a statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (a Kannon who devoted himself to Buddhism), found in the nets of fishermen in 628.  On the temple grounds is a five-story pagoda where the original statue is kept hidden, while a replica statue is on display for the public in the temple.  During our visit, the annual Shinto festival was underway with barely-clad Shinto warriors (yes..... it was a virtual female candy store, and these men definitely waxed).

Asakusa Shrine- right next to the Sensoji Temple built in 1649.  It honors the three men (the three fishermen) who found the original Kannon statue housed next door.

Tokyo National Museum- the oldest and largest museum in Japan, it houses 87 Japanese national treasures and 610 pieces considered important cultural properties.  The collection includes books, decorative art, calligraphy, sculptures, archaeological findings, ceramics, lacquer wear, textiles, armor, metalwork, and photographs.  Found several pieces I would have liked to buy, but of course they were priceless museum artifacts not for sale.....

I particularly loved the above (middle) warrior battle armor.  The woven silk and bamboo detailing certainly makes for a great fashion statement on the battlefield, but not too sure of its protective value......

Tokyo National Museum

Ueno Park- one of Tokyo’s first public parks, it serves not only as open space, but also is home to several important institutions:

• The Tokyo National Museum
• Tokyo Culture Hall (home of Tokyo Metropolitan Symphony Orchestra)
• The National Museum of Western Art
• The Shitamachi Museum
• The Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art
• The National Science Museum 
• Ueno Zoo.  

One could easily spend a week just in the park visiting all the museums.  Unfortunately, we had a single afternoon.

Akihabara- Tokyo’s high-tech district with store after store selling electronic “toys” and gadgets to satisfy any grown male.

Final thoughts on Japan:

Retail Therapy is huge throughout Japan with a high-end malls just about every block or so in the major cities.  Everything is at least twice the price of the US, and Japanese fashion is very smart and sophisticated.

Transportation and Infrastructure: organized, extensive, and extremely user-friendly.  Bullet trains are excellent.  Bike lanes everywhere.  Even have self-park bike garages.  Utilities are clearly and artistically marked.  Using the metro in any city we visited in Japan was well mapped and easy to use with schematic diagrams of the metro, bus, and rail lines.  All ticketing machines were multi-lingual and electronic displays within the metro cars were clear as to next/upcoming stops and were always announced in both Japanese and English.

place your bike in the slot and it parked underground in a totally automated system.

underground fire hydrants

Cleanliness is big.  Streets are spotless, even more impressive considering we could never find a trash can while out and about.  Shop owners sweep and wash the sidewalks regularly.

Presentation is huge.  Whether it is displaying merchandise in a store, food in a restaurant or shop, how employees dress and behave, or how purchases are wrapped, Japan has this down to a science.  Everyone bows for everything......bus and train drivers and conductors bow when entering/leaving a vehicle, and even the airline employees at the flight gate bow facing the waiting room just prior to opening up a gate for boarding a flight.

Japanese are friendly, despite what you might have read.  They are, however, very reserved and polite, which may seem stand-offish.  Whenever we were standing somewhere trying to figure out where we needed to go, we were always approached by random strangers to see if we needed help.

Queuing was always organized and orderly.  Unlike China where pushing and queue jumping was a common occurrence, Japanese wait off to the side for people to exit a bus, train, or subway before they would begin to enter. 

Searing our Wagyu and Kobe Beef at our table

Food was amazing.  Even cheap food.  Period.  




They are certainly gearing up for the 2020 Olympics.  There is no doubt in my mind they will be ready when the time arrives......

Where did the Orbach's travel in Japan?